Day 37, Morro Bay to Oceano Campground, 30 miles
The coyotes wake me in the night, entering my dreams. In my dream I see a coyote lying on the ground at my feet, like a dog. I want to pet it, but remember it is a wild thing. Will it bite me? Has it become tame by the onslaught of humans into its territory?
I laze in my tent, rising later than on most days of the tour. I’m going to spend a long time in Kreuzberg coffeehouse in San Luis Obispo, catching up on my accounting and emails, just enjoying a slow day. But first, a long ride to town, climbing up and out of Morro Bay. I pass the volcanic mountains, then rejoin Route 1. Eucalyptus line the highway, waking my nostrils with their pungent purifying scent.
I descend into San Luis Obispo and to Kreuzberg. An overstuff chair is the perfect respite for my accounting. I let my mind wander, and facebook updates don’t help the focus either. I’m feeling the end of my tour again, especially as I consider the rides ahead, the long trek over the Lompoc Peninsula, the enormous metropolis of Southern California just beyond.
For now, I’m content to ride down to the sparse populations of Pismo Beach, Grover Beach, Oceano. I camp at the county RV park, which has put in a nicely manicured hiker biker site. My two cycling companions are already there.
The camp is sited on a long strip, right between a busy Highway 1 and the Amtrak rails. The train roars by, seeming to run right over the tent. But I find this raucous railroad nostalgic. I reminisce on the many return trips I’ve taken on the Coast Starlight. And how the trains used to run past our house in Philomath, at least twice a day.
I feel a little less lonely, but a little more homesick. I’m preparing to return.