And over the Golden Gate

Day 14: Samuel P Taylor to San Francisco, 35 miles

The fifth time I’ve cycled into San Francisco since 2010, and I’m still stunned at the fact: I got here by pedaling. Blows my mind every time.

Traveling long distance by bicycle brings a radical sense of independence. In truth, interdependence. Roads of asphalt, drivers following the rules of said roads, communities and cafes and campgrounds and bike shops. Fellow cycling enthusiasts, friends and family at home, new acquaintances at distant destinations. All collaborate to create this experience.

I ride out at 7:30am, wanting to get into the city in the afternoon, much earlier than my 9pm arrival in 2013. Sir Francis Drake Boulevard out of Samuel P is gentle ride, rising gradually over a pass before descending into busy Fairfax. I take a side street and discover bagels! And here come my three cycling friends from the night before. Not really a NY bagel, and not enough lox in the schmear. Ah well, fuel.

As I climb up and over Magnolia Avenue, the slow leak in my back tire becomes a FLAT. First of the trip. I pull off the wheel, gouging my finger on one of the sprokets, strip the tire and notice a worn spot on the outer surface, from rapid breaking. I see the leak is near patches I’ve already applied, to the tire as well as the tube. Wasn’t that there from the last tour? Should have gotten a new tire before setting out. Hmm. At least there are a hundred bike shops at my destination.

Climbing a side road, I’m baffled again how 101 has become a 10 lane freeway into the city. Not the lovely winding coastal road it is in Oregon. Two steep hills (requiring brief walking) then the descent to Mill Valley. I join a bike path that passes through marshlands along Richardson Bay, back under the freeway, past the houseboat communities, then on to Bridgeway and Sausalito. My pace increases as I approach the Golden Gate. A steep climb up the Marin Headlands to reach the approach, then the bridge appears in its beautiful glory.

The path on the west side is closed, so I must ride across on the east, with pedestrian gawkers. Luckily I’m slow on the ascent, and be turning on my flashing headlight the oncoming cyclists make room.

I am elated. I’ve ridden many times into the city, each with a different feeling. Sometimes a burden in my heart. Sometimes in a loneliness I cannot shake. Not today. I’m riding in on my quest, somehow to discover my connection to this city, to the people here, the culture, the future.

And I got here by bicycle. How crazy is that?

5 thoughts on “And over the Golden Gate

  1. Lovely city to cycle in. We had a cycling holiday based there a few years ago. We cycled out to Chabot Space Centre which was the highlight of the trip- highly recommended to do! And freewheeling back from the centre at night – all the cars were going in the other direction to the freeway, so we had this lovely road to ourselves – two bikes & the moonlight.., and a skunk.

  2. Congratulations on reaching San Francisco! I love that smile of yours — it definitely shows the inner-child in you. 🙂

    I’m really enjoying how you keep running into your cycling mates. I didn’t run into many other cyclists when I biked the coast a few years back. I guess you could say that I’m touring socially through you. 😉

    1. If you cycle “by the book” (aka Bicycling the Pacific Coast) then you run into the same folks at each campground 🙂

      1. Ah ha! So *that* is the secret! You have lots to teach me, Ocean. 🙂

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